Friday, April 1, 2016

Butterick 6325 -- A Sweet Shirt

Butterick 6325

Totally into shirts these days -- 
must be Spring! 
Perfect weather here in southwest Oregon 
and the Bernina has been stitching up 
some fun versions of Butterick 6325.
This chic version of a classic shirt
has a pleated collar, 
asymmetrical pleat on right front and back
and asymmetrical hem with layered peplum.
This simple to sew pattern
lends itself to many design iterations
and the envelope contains both
 long and short versions.
All shirts shown are long.


Version 1 - pieced in cotton


This version is made up of 
three different Japanese cottons from marcytilton.com
Pre-washed in my usual cavalier fashion 
-- a quick wash and a toss in the dryer, 
then to the ironing board.
The fun part is figuring out what goes where.   
Placement is pondered 
but frequently the size of the remnant 
determines what happens with it.
In this version a seam was created
on the left back side to utilize
a piece of the pale green.
It was needed to balance the sleeve 
and underside of the collar.

Underside of collar

The under collar was pieced,
using the selvedge edge as an overlap.
It's such a joy using the selvedge edge 
of these beautiful Japanese cottons
as they frequently have words printed on them.
The selvedge edge was used
for the sleeve 'hems' on this shirt and
French seams keep the look tidy
when the sleeves are rolled up.

Version 2 -- in striped rayon

Into loving blue these days.
Certain blues are known in the trade 
as being 'denim friendly'
 (I'm such a jeans girl).

Version 3 -- an irregularly dyed rayon and linen blend

When washed and dried this fabric
softened but kept its body.
Sewed up like a dream.
I used the selvedge again,
as sleeve edges, as the 'hem' edge
on the peplum panels
and as trim on the collar.


Collar detail with selvedge accent

Front of collar with selvedge detail

The pattern piece for the under collar was cut double 
and used for the top collar as well, 
eliminating the pleats.
The selvedge trim's length was determined
by what scraps of selvedge were left.
Edges that would show were hemmed
and pinned randomly to the collar,
folded a bit for interest
and then stitched into the collar seam.
(After stitching up six plus
shirts I am ready for some variations!)

Here you can see the back pleat and peplum detail

Then there's the question of fabric.
Butterick 6325 is perfect for linen
(mid to lightweight), cottons and
other wovens with or without stretch.
All the fabric is from marcytilton.com.

Now about the yardage and layout...
The back piece of this pattern is asymmetrical
and wider at the hem which means 
it's an ample pattern piece,
more so in the larger sizes.
The pattern envelope only notes yardage for 60" fabric.
If you look online you can find many
fabric conversion charts which will help
knowing how much to buy.

There are several solutions to the layout of the fabric.
The Japanese cottons are narrow
which is one reason a back seam was added.
Add a back seam or on a firm woven 
the back can be cut on the crossgrain.



Still openings in our ParisTilton tour
in May and November
if you want to join us!

Happy sewing!!!

Tuesday, November 17, 2015

Paris est vivant!

 Yes, Paris is alive 
and from the looks of it still kicking.
Paris and all that she stands for
cannot be killed.

Paris is beauty, 
romance, adventure, friendship,
refinement, food, art, 
connection, intimacy, life,
and most important,
love.

My heart is broken.
My heart goes out to Paris.
My heart goes out to humanity.

And the tragedy of Friday, November 13th
has simply opened my heart to loving Paris more.

Paris is mystery.

Paris is light.

And the Seine flows.

I look forward to returning to Paris in the Spring --
connecting with friends,
visiting my favorite places,
eating good food,
laughing at my poor French language skills,
sitting in cafes.

You can't kill love.





Wednesday, November 11, 2015

Paris, Étonnez Moi

Great gratitude for the opportunity
to wander Paris 
with two groups of wonderful women
and continue to be amazed.

An abundance of riches —
delicious food, fine wine,
satisfying shopping,
visual feasting,
a riot of laughing
and new friends.

Rain was rare
and added to the magic.

We took silly selfies,

meandered in Montmartre,

gushed over charming puppies,

posed with the Eiffel Tower,


enjoyed Chopin on the street,


visited with bladers on the bridge,

Chris, Karen and Marcy 

Kate
Brooks and Dana
played on the plinths in the Palais Royale,

Alber Albez/Lanvin exhibition

Alber Albez/Lanvin exhibition
Alber Albez/Lanvin exhibition
Dominique, Marcy and Debra
inhaled the gift of Alber Albez's creativity ,

 photographed our shadow,
'licked' some windows,

looked in some windows,

Painting by Faith Ringgold
Detail by Faith Ringgold
found the best piece in the Picasso Mania show
by Faith Ringgold,

watched an artist sketch Sacre Coeur,


Bench by Lee Kwang-ho
Light fixture by Lee Kwang-ho
viewed the Korea Now exhibit,

Marcy, Louise, Jennifer and Jill
and enjoyed cafe life.

Je suis stupéfié!

Tuesday, October 27, 2015

Paris Postcards


An autumn day at Giverny
Blue sky pond reflecting
the final burst of leafy chroma.


Flea market fun with Ruth and Jenny. 

 Photos and playing in the Palais Royale.
 Judi, Sherry and Carmen 
installed on the installation.

Stone sculpture in the gardens.

Dye colors at the couture flower house.

Cheryl, Ruth, Debra and Marcy
enjoy the flowers.

Contemporary textiles from the
Korea Now exhibition
at Musée des Arts Décoratifs.
A marvelous mix of old
and new textile techniques
with a different point of view. 

Wish you were here!

Friday, October 16, 2015

Sensate Paris

After a hot dry summer in Oregon
the rain in Paris is welcome.
Streets and greenery shine
and the air smells fresh.

Sometimes in Paris one is gifted
with a peek into a tended courtyard.
Food for the eye
as tasty and sweet as a macaron!

A surprise concert outside our hotel.
Harmonious sounds swirling
through the street;
auditory leaves of resonance wrapping round.

Selfies in the gelato shop
can't convey the taste
and perfect texture 
of our delectable dessert.
A decadent den of deliciousness.

Concept shop Merci
is always on the edge of something new;
presently featuring vintage 
English Navy coats and jackets
in scratchy wool serge with
shiny brass buttons.


Pricy chic.

But then Paris
is never stingy...