Tuesday, August 26, 2014

Babe and Jean (or Variations on Butterick 6106)

butterick 6106 in plaid
 There are some wonderful plaids
available these days
in fabrics and ready-to-wear.
When I saw this bold plaid 
in grey and black I was hooked.

Sometimes I'm attracted to a fabric 
and it sits on the shelf
waiting for inspiration.
In this case the inspiration was right there.
No escape.

The moment I'd finished
the sample I was playing with I was on it.

with front collar open

Since I was going for a Babe* look
I knew I wanted to do something different
with the plaid -- more than just matching.
Butterick 6106 seemed right
for the challenge.

back butterick 6106

 Planning how to cut out something like this
takes some forethought.
I knew I wanted to mix it up
and I also knew
I wanted to match things up.
I started with the matching up.

side back cut at an angle

 The back is always a good place to start
as you won't have to look at mistakes 
(if there are any).
Originally I cut the back with the plaid
matching all the way across.
After I completed the two fronts
I decided that one of the side backs
needed to be cut at an angle.
Since this fabric was woven and then brushed
it was quite stable 
so I didn't have to worry about stretching
if I cut off grain.
Which I did a lot of...

left front plaid matching

I decided to match plaids on one side of the front.
I chose the most complicated side to manuver
but I'm quite pleased with how it turned out.
I love how the bold black line
zigs and zags down the front.

front facing detail
All pattern pieces were cut out one at a time
moving from the shoulder to the hem;
back, left front, right front, back revised.
Decisions about how to design/cut the next piece in line
were made one at a time 
after studying the plaid and the pattern piece.
An organic process,
allowing each design decision 
to lead to the next.

fold back sleeve detail

The plaid fabric was too thick to use for facings
so I chose a lighter weight fabric.
The contrast fabric definitely 
takes the jacket up a notch.

* Plaids always seem to remind me of Paul Bunyan.
Paul had a sidekick named Babe
(never mind that she is a blue ox).
 Hence I call this my Babe jacket.

butterick 6106 jean jacket

I made the same jacket in a 'denim'
digitally printed from the image 
of a well loved jean jacket.

front button detail

I was able to utilize the fabric print
to my advantage.
Fun to be able to top the visual buttonholes
with real ones
and manage to find buttons 
that mimic those found on the real deal.

back view jean jacket

I call these 'jackets' but often
I wear them like a shirt
as well as layering them
over T's.

Can't wait to make another one!