Friday, August 15, 2014

Some Tips for Butterick 6106 Jacket/Shirt

butterick 6106 in versaille jacquard denim
I love to play with fabric combinations,
and I'm always trying to make it easier.
Hence patterns where the combinations
are already done for you.

pattern pieces puzzled out before stitching
After cutting all the pieces out,
keeping the pattern piece with the fabric,
I put everything together
to simplify the sewing/matching notches process.
Often I stitch the smaller pieces
to the larger first,
always thinking ahead
as to how I'm going to finish the seams
and what needs to be done next.

press before stitching
For this little piece and the one it's attached to,
it's best to press the 'hemmed' edges
before you stitch them together.

finish seam before you go on
Here you can see I serged the edge
before going any further.

all ready for hem finish later
The hems are stitched in place
once the jacket is fully assembled.

mostly assembled jacket
I always like to do 
a final design check
to make sure I still like what I'm making.
Note that the contrast bias strip
on the curve of the hem
will only be seen from the inside.

auditioning buttons
Buttons need to be checked out too.
This particular jacket seemed to call for a variety.
Which means the buttonholes
need to be different sizes.

curved edge detail
Many sweet details make this jacket/shirt
very fun and easy to wear.
This version pieced of Japanese cotton
utilizes buttons in pairs down the front.

avoiding bulk in the hem
To eliminate some of the bulk in the hem
I have a little trick I like to do.
I serge the seams to clean them up
and keep the fabric from fraying.
But I keep the seams that will be 
hidden in the hem 
open and flat.
When the fabric is turned over on itself and pressed
the serged end is hidden in the turn-over
and the flat open seam creates less bulk.

how to deal with that little pointed 'corner'

Where there are 'flares' or extra fabric
in the hem I draw a mirror image
of the angle with chalk
and stitch on that line,
trimming the excess off 
and pressing the seam flat.

 
fold over hem 'point'
This keeps the hem flat
and the corner tidy.

butterick 6106 in monet's garden stretch cotton
All the fabrics I use in my patterns
are from MarcyTilton.com
and if the exact fabrics
shown on the pattern envelope
are no longer available
we are sure to have something
equal to or better than
to satisfy your creative wishes.


butterick 6106 line drawing

Happy sewing!