Wednesday, January 21, 2015

Kicky Pocket Improvisation

Working on a version of a not yet released pattern
that I'm making for myself.
I can't show the garment
but I can show the pocket I'm improvising.

The samples have patch pockets 
or 'bag' pockets in the side seam.
When I got to the pocket stage
on this garment it was clear
after auditioning options
that neither patch nor bag pockets
were quite right.

When in doubt, 
sleep on it.

Returning to my studio the next morning
and 'circling the wagons',
by moving from computer,
to sewing machine,
to button choosing,
to phone calls,
cleared a space for the perfect pocket
to arise in my awareness.

Funny how surrendering to procrastination 
can work in your favor...

Finished patch pocket with contrast interior and 'piping'.

One pocket 
in a geometric shape
that complimented the fabric
with an opening
that did the same.

I tried on the garment
put my hand where 
it wanted to go into a pocket
and marked that spot with a pin.

Pocket placement marked with a pin.

The idea of the shape
was cut out of a pellon type pattern 'paper'.
When the shape cut from my original concept
 was placed on the garment
I immediately turned it upside down
and it felt perfect. 
A smaller shape was cut 
for the opening.

Pocket pattern with cutout.

I wanted the contrast fabric
to peek out of the pocket opening
and to 'pipe' the opening.
I used Diane Ericson's 'piping' technique
where the facing fabric 
wraps around the edge
giving the illusion of a piping. 
Simply genius!
Fortunately the knit I used was 
a stable double knit with great flexibility
and it worked perfectly.

Pocket shape drawn on back with pins marking corner placement.

Pocket and opening shapes were drawn with chalk
on the back of the garment
and the corners of the opening marked with pins.

Facing for opening cut from contrast fabric.

I didn't have much left of the contrast fabric
so I used as little as possible.

Pocket facing in place on front of garment.

Facing lines up with pins coming from the back.

Pocket facing stitched, opened and trimmed.

I love the houndstooth cover of
my custom Stitch Nerd ham peeking through.

Facing turned to the back -- but not all the way.

Once the 'piping' was in place 
I pinned and pressed it down.

View from the wrong side.

How I determined the side pocket pattern shape.

I realized that I wanted another pocket
on the other side of the garment
but not the same. 
I placed the geometric pocket shape I'd created
on top of a classic pocket pattern piece,
made some small adjustments
to angle the shape
and came up with the piece on the left.

Had just enough contrast fabric left for this pocket.

Finished side pocket.

The contrast fabric in the two pockets
provide just enough variance
to keep things interesting visually.

The two pockets together.

Look for me wearing this garment
at the Sew Expo
in Puyallup, Washington
February 26 to March 1.

Come see all our wonderful fabrics
in booth 830.