Saturday, August 1, 2015

Butterick 6253 - Three Tiered Jacket

A girlie hoodie! Butterick 6253

Winter will come
and before it Autumn
with her clear scent and fresh chill.

Time to make some warm things...

Back View of Butterick 6523

This pattern combines
the practicality of a sweatshirt,
having the warmth and comfort I crave,
with a flattering feminine fit
and simple construction.

I've not yet worn the hood up
but I like the extra weight and warmth
of it on the back of my neck.

Suitable fabrics include
classic sweatshirt fleece (grey),
beefy Ponte (red), 
French Terry, 
light to medium weight polar fleece
or one of the new quilted knits (white).

All fabrics available from
of course!

Some Stitching Tips for View A & B

If you are making View C
the seams are sewn to the inside as usual.

Views A and B utilize the cut raw edge
of a fabric like fleece or Ponte.
The edges overlap
for a more textured effect.

Use a row of pins to mark the overlap line edge.

To make the gathering of the tiers easy,
I first stitch a double row of gathering stitches
on the top of each tier.
I want them to be about 1/4" from each other
on either side of the topstitching line
because I am going to use a double needle
for the topstitching down the center.

I mark a line with pins for the top of the tier
so things stay straight.
My line is 1" from the cut edges because 
I use 1/2" seam allowances.

Tiers pinned and ready to be stitched together.

Double needle topstitching.

Stitch down the center of the gathering lines,
removing pins as you go.
It might look like too many pins
but it works well for me
keeping the stitching easy
and straight.

Ties coming out of hood edge.

The hood is pretty straightforward.
I like to thread the ties through the placket
before I stitch the placket closed.
Here you can see that I edged
the inside placket edge
 with the same ribbon
that is used for the tie.

Finish the hood's inside seams.

Since the seams on the inside of the hood
will be visible when the hood is down
I finished these seams with some hand sewing.
The edges were rolled under
and slipstitched in place.

The zen of hand sewing appeals
to me more as I do more.

Don't Like the Hood?

The hood can be fashioned into a collar.
Use the width around the neck
that the pattern pieces provide.
Trim the depth of the hood pieces to about 3-1/2," 
plus seam allowance on the neck edge,
plus top hem depth.
A placket for ties can be included 
providing a nice design element.

Happy sewing!